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Raising Homing Pigeons
Pigeons are strong fliers and have been widely used as emergency carriers
at many times in our history as they will instinctively return to their place
of birth. It is this ability to fly and the instinct to return to the
coop that is drawn upon when pigeons are used in the training of a versatile
hunting dog. Pigeons and Doves are monogamous, they mate for life, but on
the death of a mate, they will re-mate in time. During courting, including
head-bobbing, cooing and "kissing" the two will build a nest anywhere they
can find a ledge. When the time is near for egg laying, the male will chase
the female to the nest and force her to stay on the nest. The female
lays 2 white eggs and both the male and the female pigeon take turns incubating
the young. Generally the male sits from the late morning to the afternoon,
and the female will sit the rest of the time. Incubation is about 17
days, the parents will care for the young in the nest for another 17 days
with both parents feeding them "pigeon milk" which is secreted by the glandular
walls of the crop. As the young get older, small seeds will be mixed into
the milk, and eventually the adult pigeons will feed a mixture of pure seeds,
water and grit. Parents will frequently set another clutch of eggs once their
first has hatched, and thus will raise two sets of young at a time, incubating
the younger.
Once a squab is old enough, it will leave the nest to walk on the ground
and learn to feed and drink water from its parents. Young pigeons (Squeakers)
lack the white skin saddle (cere) between the bill and forehead and emit a
high "squeak" and so are easily distinguishable from the adults.
A Squeaker can be taken from its coop, and will then instinctively home to
wherever it is raised. Once a bird is an adult, if moved to another
location it will need to be wing clipped in order to stay in a new coop.
About 28 days after hatching, training to home can begin, with the first
lessons being how to enter the coop through the trap door.
To raise enough pigeons for ongoing dog training, keep a "breeding coop"
of racing homers that are not permitted to fly free. These birds breed from
March to September, and often produce eggs this entire time, even during their
molt. The breeding coop consists of a coop and a flight pen, made with
wood and plywood, with wire chicken mesh stapled on the flight pen.
The coop (you can purchase plans from pigeon supply sites) has a feed bin
and nest boxes and exits to the flight pen with a covered with a porch (equipped
with more nest boxes). The flight pen contains a water fountain, a
feed and grit box, and a perch. Nesting material is available - straw
and hay mainly, pigeons are not always great nest builders, but some do their
best if they are provided with materials. Every spring, before egg
laying begins, the nesting boxes are cleaned. Do not breath the dust
from pigeons, you can get very sick. Once breeding begins, it will not end
until fall, with pigeons breeding non stop. Good quality food is necessary
so as not to deplete the breeding birds. A mixture of commercial laying
mash, seeds and grains, or a commercial pigeon mix are all good ideas.
pigeons also need salt, grit and oyster shell. Water is essential, as
well as for drinking, pigeons need to take a daily bath, especially when sitting
on eggs (moisture).
Training birds are pigeons that have been removed from the breeding coop
as squeakers, so they will home to the flying coop once they are adults.
Once they have learned to go in and out of the trap door they are taken progressively
further from the coop to practice homing. The outside wall of the flight
pen has a trap door with bobs which hang down, allowing the pigeons outside
to enter while preventing the pigeons inside from going out. The trap
door also has a solid predator door that closes over top, preventing predators
from coming in after the pigeons. Sometimes the bobs are propped up,
allowing the pigeons to come and go at will especially in the mornings, this
extra flying will help to condition their wings and make them strong fliers.
You must be careful that no cats, hawks or owls are feeding on your pigeons,
so leaving the bobs up or the predator door open is not normally a good idea,
as predators can also enter your coop, and can kill many birds in just a couple
of days.
Homing pigeons will fly home over many miles, allowing you to train in different
fields and if you have quality racing homers, you will even be able to train
across the country. Unlike Game birds, a homing pigeon will simply fly
home once they are released from a sock or a launcher, this is excellent when
breaking a young dog to stop to flush.
When planning to train, make sure pigeons are not let out in the morning.
Take a crate into the coop and set it up on it's end, the door at the
top. By netting or grabbing pigeons, place the pigeons into the crate.
When the crate is full, the door on the crate is latched and carried out
to the training area.
Good luck with using pigeons for your dog training!
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